Putting to bed (the final post of this blog)

Sept 27^th and 28^th, Mahon

I return to Menorca to make further arrangements, refuel the boat and attend it being lifted and dry stored. The weather is still bright and hot during the day, but Mahon is much quieter than 3 weeks earlier; a few restaurants have closed, many boats have gone, and gulls are taking over some of the pontoons.

The travel-lift is booked for the 28^th at 08:00; a rare occasion – for me – to watch the sun rise over the harbour before casting off the last time for this season.

The boat yard is right at the inner end of the harbour, so I pass Mahon Old Town on the way.

Tarilian is lifted, after nearly six months, showing a ‘dirty bottom’.

With the boat dry stored in Mahon, our 2011 journey ends.

The chart plotters hold the track.

NB : I put together a cleaned-up and CHRONOLOGICAL version of the whole log, with all  photos and some additional information. It is available for free download as .pdf file (click the links and choose save to your computer).

Log 2011

Menorca – Mahon

Sept 7th

Again a scorcher with 30 deg C, we do not want to stay in town. There is a protected anchorage just around the corner from the harbour, where we get a chance for a good swim.

Tarilian anchored in Taulera cove. La Mola fortification behind.

Mahon is a an interesting place, different from my expectations. The Old Town is situated above the harbour; along the quays are numerous restaurants and bars to choose from, we sample simple eateries to gourmet quality. In an area further away from the centre many businesses have become victims of the recession,  hotels are closed and the buildings in decay or for sale. The casino is also closed. There are no beaches as such; but there are numerous moorings for boats. It is a very ‘boaty’ place, some perfectly maintained traditional sailing yachts are kept next to our berth in the marina, reminding me of Falmouth with its traditional yacht races. The guests are mainly British, with some French and German.

Traditional yacht in Marina Mahon. Isla del Rey in the background

We learn that there is a major tradition of horse keeping in Menorca, in particular of a specific Menorquin breed of black horses. Wealthy families spend a fortune for the upkeep and training of these horses; they form central part of celebrations such as the Fiesta de Gracia in Mahon, which starts tonight with a parade of more than 100 horses through the town. We have an Italian meal, and then walk into town to see what it is about.

Mahon Old Town overlooks the harbour

Horses approaching town square

The parade of horses runs on a trail of sand through the Old Town. The rider’s pride is to make his horse rise and stand on its back legs. The squares are noisy with bands and piped music, and the crowd is excited and gets incredibly close to the horses – in fact touching them. There is great confidence on both sides, and apparently no incidents. Spirits here are seriously high.

Riders in Placa Real

The higher, the longer, the better

Horses 'dancing' in decorated Placa Constitucio

Sept 8th

We had left our defect tender to Pedro’s Boat Centre to be fixed. They had kindly lent us a temporary dinghy.  To our surprise their manager turns up in the morning – a holiday in Mahon – with our tender ready to go. We are aware, that the potential aftermath of the submersion, the demise of the electronics, may still be coming upon us.

There are more horses’ events  coming  up today, including races in the afternoon, but we feel we have got the gist and do not fancy standing in town in the boiling hot sun. I do instead fancy to explore a further anchorage, behind Isla Colom, only seven miles away, which has been recommended. The approach is bumpy with swell from the NE of 1-1.5m, but behind the small deserted island we are perfectly fine. We anchor in 3m depth. May be the next best thing to the Bahamas?

Anchored SW of Isla Colom

Our flights to London are booked for tomorrow, Sept 9th. Before we leave we will prepare the boat for its stay in the marina until we come back end of the month, it will then be lifted for winter storage.

I am closing this blog post with a picture of Tarilian in Marina Mahon taken a couple of days earlier.

Tarilian in Marina Mahon

Balearic Islands – Menorca

Sept 4th, Sunday

A bright clear morning. After a shallow front has passed the visibility is excellent. By 9:00 we cast off for our cruise to Menorca.

Heading East out of port

In order to catch up after the delay in Pollenca we will go all the way to Mahon, rather than staying in Ciutadella as originally planned.

View Larger Map

Considering the forecast of residual swell from the South I decide to approach Mahon via Menorca’s North coast, some five miles longer to go, but hopefully a much nicer cruise; we really don’t need more rolling in beam seas.

Leaving Mallorca behind; the bay of Pollenca

Mallorca has much higher mountains than the smaller and low lying Menorca, it remains visible behind us all the way, seeming closer than Menorca even when we are more than half-way there.

Around midday we reach the Northwest corner of Menorca.

Cabo Nati

The geological difference to Majorca is obvious. I also notice round stone structures – such as the one in a distance behind the lighthouse. Having heard about abundant megalithic monuments in Menorca I instantly conclude the little tower may be an ancient burial mound. Well, at least it looks a bit like one.

We further notice that this part of Menorca seems much less developed than the other islands. There are not only fewer settlements, the houses are also smaller, and mostly detached or terraced villas rather than the blocks of flats.

The weather is slightly unstable, we travel in the company of patches of black clouds, and just about avoid a little drizzle. They make the scenery look more dramatic.

Cabo Es Nord

Cabo Es Nord is the Northern most point of Menorca. Soon later we arrive at Cala Fornells, a long and deep indent into the coast, a well protected bay with a small yacht harbour and large un-crowded anchorage.

Cala Fornells yacht harbour and development

Anchorage Cala Fornells

After a tour of Cala Fornells we continue our progress to Southeast, the island’s capital. Black cloud follows us on the way, until we outrun them nearer to Mahon when the wind changes to SW. At a log reading of of 70 nm we arrive at the harbour entrance at 16:00.

Tarilian enters the harbour of Mahon

After a cruise from Gibraltar of some 700nm within the last 23 days we have reached the harbour, where Tarilian will be berthed until next spring.

Mahon is a safe deep natural harbour, a long indent into the coast. It feels quite different from other Balearic places, maybe due its past which was influenced by the British. The first impressions when entering are fortifications, a historic army hospital, a ‘quarantine’ island. The harbour basin has several coves and islands, and is wide and deep enough to allow Ocean liners to enter and moor on the commercial quay. The marina prices seem to be lower than in the other Balearic islands, and the harbour appears less crowded.

Cala Font, one of the coves in Mahon harbour

Oceanliners make it to Mahon

After the harbour tour in blistering heat we berth at Marina Mahon, the new yacht marina in Cala Figuera. At 16:45 the engines are turned off and a bottle of very cold fizz has to come out to celebrate the successful completion of our journey.

Evening at Marina Mahon

Balearic Islands – Mallorca

August 26th, crossing to Mallorca

Today’s journey is to the ‘main’ of the Balearic islands, Mallorca, a trip of 53 nm. We had visited Palma on a land trip few years ago, and have chosen to go to Puerto Andratx on the Southwest side, where we will meet friends Judy and Francois who live in Mallorca.

Considering the upcoming last weekend of August I have called ahead and reserved a berth at Club de Vela.

We leave a mooring by 9:00. The weather forecast is for 10-15kn West which should push us nicely; the day is, again sunny and hot.

Ibiza - view to Cabo Roig

Leaving Ibiza behind- lighthouse on Tagomago island

Around 12:00 we have the first sighting of Mallorca, the Dragonera island at its SW corner.

The wind raises swell of 1meter but we are going in the ‘right’ direction, with it. Instead of heading straight for Port Andratx we visit the nearby bay of Camp de Mar, where Jane has fond teenage memories.

 

View Larger Map

 

Given the wind and swell from SW bays in this area are uncomfortable, I choose to try Cala Blanca which is at least slightly protected. Still uncomfortable, but I have a swim.

Anchored in Cala Blanca near Puerto Andratx

On the way to Puerto Andratx, after a tour of Camp de Mar development, we pass through quite big waves until we reach the harbour bay.

 

Approaching Puerto Andratx

Refuelling and then berthing in the Club de Vela, a long established stylish marina with pool, bar and restaurant.

Dinner with our friends Judy and Francois (see blog posts from Galicia).

August 27th,  Andratx

The old town of Andratx is a few miles inland, as many towns in Mallorca, apparently to protect them against pirates in the old days. We take a bus and visit it in the afternoon. The quiet town inland is in contrast to the busy tourist development on the coast.

Church of Andratx old town

View from church to Puerto Andratx

Despite the tourist hustle and bustle in Puerto Andratx, and all the villas and flats around, Jane and I still find it a charming pleasant place, mainly thanks to its great position as a natural safe harbour surrounded by wooded hills.

Evening in Puerto Andratx

August 28th, along Mallorca’s Northwest coast.

Time to continue our voyage to the North of Mallorca; the weather forecast has been fine, with light S to SE winds, ideal to cruise NW along the rugged coast.

Puerto Andratx - leaving harbour

The developments of Puerto Andratx, like in all prime locations, seem to sprawl and use every space available; how much might the planning permission have cost?

Flats at Puerto Andratx

In contrast to the East and South coast, the North-west coast of Mallorca has high mountains and a rocky coastline with rugged cliffs. There a few tourist developments, and the only harbour between the SW end and Cabo Formentor, in the far N, is Port Soller.

We pass between Malloca and Isla Dragonera which lies on the SW ‘corner’.

Isla Dragonera - cape Tramontana looking North

Coast North of isla Dragonera

After nearly two hours we reach the small but dramatic promontory of Doradada, a tiny peninsula with a historic mansion above and a dramatic hole in the rock.

Doradada peninsula near Deia

rock formation at Doradada

We find it unsuited for us to anchor there, and choose to go to nearby Deia cove.

Anchored in Cala Deia

The famous picturesque village of Deia lies in the hills behind, it cannot be seen from the cove. This development is an antidote to the tasteless commercial developments in other parts of Mallorca.

Deia cove and beach

After a good afternoon and swim in Deia cove we continue to Port Soller, a natural safe harbour surrounded by high mountains. I have called Marina Tramontana for a berth. Just after 17:00 we approach the harbour.

We have a walk around the town, look at the ancient tram connecting Puerto Soller with Soller town, and enjoy the sunset. This evening we are, however, not very lucky with our pick of restaurant for dinner.

Approaching Port Soller

Evening at Port Soller

 August 29th, to Cabo Formentor and Puerto Pollenca

Today’s journey will cover the last stretch of NW coast of Mallorca, and around the ‘wild’ Cabo Formentor, the NW peak of the island, to Port Pollenca.

We note gusting winds along some of the cliffs, and there are light clouds on the way. The coast is very dramatic and bare, and in anything but calm and balmy conditions I suppose the journey would feel menacing.

Mallorca's NW coast, view to Puig Major

Punta de Galera with calas

The cruise guide book mentions a number of calas between those rocks, but I do not like them, and have chosen Cala Figuera, 5 nm South of Cabo Formentor.

Cabo Cataluna, Cabo Formentor in the distance

As soon as we arrive at the cala the winds stop and we have the most amazing lunch stay and afternoon swim. The water here is crystal clear, warm, and of a deep blue over a sandy bottom. An anchorage as good as it gets.

Cala Figuera near Formentor

Anchored in Cala Figuera

At 16:30 we weigh anchor and round Cabo Formentor, and then to Porto Pollenca.

Some super yachts do not fail to stun me, like this one in the bay of Port Pollenca, which seems to be a converted research or exploration ship. Just so many toys, 3 fast motor launches, about 8 jet skies floating outside the swimming platform…

By 17:30 we are moored at the visitors’ pontoon of Puerto Pollenca’s club marina, our position is on the outer pontoon looking over the anchorage. Later dinner at the truly excellent club restaurant.

Berthed in Club Nautico Pollenca

August 30th, Puerto Pollenca

A holiday at Pollenca. We only go out for a short exploration of the bay and across to Cala Pinar (pine cove), where we anchor for a swim. The double cala is in a military area and so it’s forbidden to go on land. That would not have mattered to us, but the protected parts of the cove, and best for swimming, are inaccessible through buoys and ropes. So, one has to effectively keep outside.

Puerto Pollenca and lighthouse

Cala Pinar - 'military bay'

I intend to explore the surroundings by dinghy, but the starter key would not operate. After trying as much as I could, boiling in the sun, I have to give up and later seek help to fix the broken key lock. Our neighbour in the marina recommends a local ‘capable dinghy specialist’, Lorenzo, and I call him.

He promises to visit later in the afternoon, but does not, and turns up the next morning.

August 31st

In the morning Lorenzo removes the dinghy lock; he returns in the afternoon, with an assistant, to install a new one. Then a little accident happens: One of the workers topples the dinghy, which is sitting on its chocks, over, so it goes over the platform and floats upside down in the sea. After a rescue operation, assisted by a marina forklift, the dinghy is put ashore: Instead of just a new key lock it now needs new gear/throttle controls (parts of the old are lost on the sea bed), new battery, and cleaning up the engine that had been under water.

We had intended to leave for Menorca the next day, Sept 1st, but realize our departure will be delayed: I am concerned about later consequences of the immersion of the tender outboard if not treated properly and soon, so I am prepared to wait for the engineer to complete his job. Lorenzo promises me he would order the arts straight away and install them on the next day, Sept 1.

our dinghy without controls, waiting to be fixed

Thursday, Sept 1st. No sign of Lorenzo. I finally reach him on the phone and he explains that the parts are taking longer to get, but he would come on the following morning, Friday Sept 2rd, and finish around 11:00 – in good faith I believe him, and expect we would be able to leave for Menorca before lunch time on Sept 2nd. So we stay overnight.

Friday, Sept 2nd. Lorenzo does not turn up in the morning; I finally ask the marina office manager, who knows him, for her assistance. She talks to him and he promises to come in the afternoon at 16:00. We won’t be able to leave today either.

You might guess what happens next – Lorenzo again does not turn up and does not call either. His unprofessional manner is affecting our patience and spoils our enjoyment of staying here. I finally get hold of him at 18:00 and he tells me that the parts had to be sent from Belgium, and would arrive the following Tuesday, Sept 6th (!). No apologies, no explanations why he never contacted us and repeatedly made us wait for him in vain. I need to make a decision; we will give up ‘Lorenzo’, leave Mallorca without a working dinghy and have the repair done somewhere else.

Sept 3rd, Saturday.

The weather forecast for today is not too good, a low passing over the islands and causing some storms. By Sunday the situation should be more favourable for our eagerly anticipated crossing to our final destination.

So we have another day on land; Pollenca is after all a pleasant resort and offers a choice of very good restaurants around the marina.

View from 'pine walk' , the beach promenade at Puerto de Pollenca

Port of Pollenca beach, marina in the background

Visitors' pontoon in the evening

Balearic Islands – Formentera & Ibiza

August 24th – crossing to Formentera

At 9:30 we slip our moorings and leave port Calpe in hazy sun and calm seas. Today we are crossing over to the Balearic islands, where our first stop will be Formentera, about 63nm distance.

After more than1600 nm of coastal voyage Tarilian leaves the mainland behind and heads 84 degrees for the islands.

Leaving the mainland at Calpe, Ifach rock

On our crossing we encounter several yachts, mostly sailing boats.

Around 14:00 Ibiza becomes visible, in15nm distance. The low lying Formentera takes longer to show up.

Ibiza becomes visible

We have reserved a berth in marina Formentera in Puerto de Sabina, the only port on Formentera. Instead of heading straight for the port we make detour to view the anchorages North of Sabinas towards Espalmador. We realize that we have entered a completely different kind of cruising area: The anchorages are busy, there are tourist  ferries from Ibiza crossing our path. What is most staggering is the sheer size of some of the motor yachts.

At 16:00 we berth at Marina Formentera.

Formentera marina - ferries galore

View Larger Map
A brief exploration of the small Puerto de Sabina takes me to the salt planes behind the harbour, and the Calo de S’oli anchorage on the other.

Salt planes behind Puerto de Sabina

Boat dry storage from the stone age ?

Formentera is by no means a quiet place. There is an almost constant coming and going of tourist ferries and trip boats from Ibiza, and hundreds of motor scooters are waiting to be rented.

Low cost tourism and the most sophisticated super yachts are next to each other; hostels are near to trendy restaurants, one with an Italian name where we have our most expensive pizza ever.

Towards the evening the harbour, which is shared between fishing boats, ferries and pleasure yachts gets filled up to the last berth, although most yachts are actually anchoring outside and in Calas.

A yacht enters Puerto de Sabinas, numerous sail boats are anchored outside

In marina Formentera. Size matters.

Despite the harbour is crowded the night is quiet.

August 25th

Today’s plan is to do the short hop to Ibiza later, and stay at anchor around Formentera on the way.

The anchorage at Espalmador islet nearby has been described as very crowded, so we choose to stay outside along the long narrow end of Formentera where there are beaches and nice blue water everywhere. This ‘anchorage’ actually hardly offers any protection at all, apart from a narrow sand spit on one side behind, but there is little wind and swell today.

This is the first time I really feel like being on a Mediterranean boating holiday! Excellent and warm water, and good swimming.

Anchored near N end of Formentera

Superyachts - the toys are being brought out

Just after 15:00, after enough swimming, we leave the anchorage and head North to Ibiza, through the Freu Grande passage, the large gap between Ibiza and Formentera.

Freu Grande passage from S, isla Espalmador to right

Freu Grande passage - view N to Ibiza

En route we pass Ibiza town and decide to have a quick harbour tour.

Islotes Malvinas in front of Ibiza town and castle

Ibiza Old Town and Ferry port

Crowded Marina Ibiza

After the super yacht crowding and out-of-proportion berthing fees at Formentera I am not keen to see much more of busy Ibiza town, and we decide to stay overnight in the more relaxed Port of Santa Eulalia, a few miles further North from Ibiza town.

Ibiza Harbour lights

Evening in marina Santa Eulalia

Tomorrow we will be on our way to Mallorca.

Along the Costa Blanca – part 2, Villajoyosa and Calpe

Monday, August 22nd

Our 4 days stay in Tomas Maestre marina at the Mar Menor has been relaxing. A lasting memory will be swimming with jelly fish. Anyway, it was nice, and the wind -that had been a concern for us- has calmed down. This morning we are setting out to get to the next stop on our journey to the Balearic islands; I have chosen Villajoyosa marina, they have got space for us.

We pass between the non-spectacular Cabo de Santa Pola and the outer low lying island of Tabarca, that was once a pirate base:

Isla Tabarca, outside Cabo di Santa Pola

Our journey takes us past Alicante, a major town and harbour, with a busy tourist airport, too.

Alicante

We notice a few more pleasure yachts on the water today than previously, and there is some swell; we reach Villajoyosa after a cruise of five hours.

Villajoyosa town and beach

Temperatures keep being around 30deg C, and so we don’t have enough stamina to explore the town in any detail, but have a decent meal in the marina restaurant overlooking the water.

Tuesday, August 23rd

Today is the last part of our journey along the Costa Blanca; we head for a harbour from where we can then cross over to the Balearics, i.e. the nearest of them, Ibiza/Formentera.

The first sight after leaving Villajoyosa is, anyhow, the major eyesore of the development of Benidorm.

Las Vegas on the Costa ?

East of Benidorm the coast line is again rocky and bare,  and we pass Punta de Albir with its lighthouse, after which the bay of Altea opens.

Punta de Albir

For a snack and a swim we anchor in a bay East of Cape Mascarat. There are scary little rocks on one side, where a couple of people are snorkelling, and a high cliff on the other side, but the anchor holds. Unfortunately the swell does not allow for a very comfortable stay.

Rocky anchorage near Mascarat

Our destination of today had been Moraira with its recommended marina, but they are unable to confirm availability of a mooring. I do not want to take chances and call Calpe, an alternative port nearby, for a mooring and get confirmation.

The port of Calpe is still a working fishing port, where the yacht marina occupies one part. It gives a more ‘real’ feeling than some of the artificial yacht harbours along the Costas. Our berth is a bit hard to get into, but luckily there is no wind.

Berthed at Calpe marina

Calpe is positioned across the base of a small peninsula with a huge rock, the Ifach, around which is a ‘nature park’. The town seems a lively place which is blessed with beaches on two sides, but has the same modern multi-story blocks of flats, which seem ubiquitous in this part of Spain. I identify the nearest supermarket and stock up our fridges.

There are several eateries in the area of the marina, but we trust the restaurant of the Real Club Nautico.

This evening is special, we are already in anticipation of the crossing that we want to do tomorrow. I have confirmed a mooring at Marina Formentera, done the boat checks, and the weather forecast for the next days is brilliant.

Evening in Calpe: The Ifach rock overlooking marina

View Larger Map

Along the Costa Blanca – part 1, Aguilas and the Mar Menor

August 16th 

We leave Aguadulce marina at 10am in sunny and calm weather and head across the bay of Almeria towards the Cabo de Gata, the West end of the Costa Blanca.

Cabo de Gata

Close to the cape the East wind freshens and whips up some swell.

Passing near the coast we find interesting rock formations, including black and white stone.

Some 20nm from Cabo de Gata is Punta la Media Naranja with a lighthouse on a 222meter high rock, and shortly after a rocky promontory with the threatening name of Punto de Los Muertos.

Lighthouse Punto Media Naranja

Punto de Los Muertos

Today’s destination is the new (2 years old) marina Juan Montiel in Aquilas. There are further marinas in the area but for small boats only.  Juan Montiel is not yet found on all charts; for information, it is in the position of the charted East cardinal buoy south of Aguilas. The buoy is still there, strangely overlooking the marina from a corner. In the background is Aguilas’ castle.

Berthed in Marina Aquilas

Aguilas is a fishing and ‘family type’ village, with two bays, and, of course, good beaches and (not so high rising) blocks of flats. It feels relaxed but busy in the evening, families are out and about, on the beach and the large pedestrian promenade along it where we find a restaurant for dinner. Today we have covered 70nm, with no break.

The weather is getting hotter, day time temperature reached 32 degC and nights are about 26 deg.

August 17th

Today is our fifth consecutive day of cruising and it should take us to the Mar Menor. We want to have a break after today.

The weather forecast has been for East 10kn and swell up to 1 meter. We leave Aguilas in sunny and hot weather; around midday the wind freshens and the swell, in a confused sea, feels uncomfortable. An alternative, closer, destination for today could be one of the marinas in the major harbour of Cartagena. Here is a view of Cartagena bay on our approach. The harbour itself is entered via channel to left at the distant end.

Approaching Cartagena

There are surprisingly few yachts to be seen on the water; here is one in Cartagena bay.

It is only 14:00 and we decide to anchor for tea in the minor anchorage just round the corner from Cartagena entrance, which is  in rocky surroundings and protects against the East wind.

Anchorage Algameca Chica

The anchorage is quiet and makes us feel we are strong enough to go on to Cabo Palos and then to Tomas Meastre marina in the Mar Menor entrance channel, where we hope to have a few days rest.

The Mar Menor is a shallow, 5-6m deep and 6 by 12sm large area of sea which is separated from the Mediterranean by a sand bank. There is one navigable entrance channel, about in the middle part. Inside are several small ports; it seems a miniature cruising ground, with lots of boats of all sizes, jet skies etc.

View Larger Map

Approaching the entrance of Mar Menor from S, which is behind the long sandbank lined with apartment blocks (La Manga).  The rock that sticks out to the right is Isla Grosa.

Approaching Puerto Tomas Maestre/La Manga

Jane insists to see another Sleeping Harrydog, sniffing at some spit in front of this nose..

Isla Grosa outside the Mar Menor

Once though the buoyed entrance channel, the marina Tomas Maestre is found at the other end.

Entrance to Canal from Mar Menor to Mediterranean

The club nautico restaurant can be seen on the right side, behind the waiting pontoon. In the background is the lifting road bridge, the pointy structure next to it is its control tower. With a clearance of 7.5m we could have passed underneath, but took advantage of the 17:00 opening.

Berthed in marina Tomas Maestre

August 18th to 21st

After covering 300 nm within 5days we are ready for a short holiday. I also want to finish a few small maintenance jobs on the boat. With wind forecasts for the coming days of 20kn from E and NE, uncomfortable for us, the decision to stay in Tomas Maestre is easy. The large marina is nicely designed,  restaurants and a supermarket are in easy walking distance, and there is holiday feeling to it.

The day temperature is regularly hot and sticky 30 deg, which is too much for my taste, and even the nights are not really much cooler. In the first couple of days we have the aircon turned on during the day, but by the third we appear to have got more used to the heat.

One afternoon we refuel and then venture into the Mar Menor, to anchor outside for a few hours.

Anchored in Mar Menor

We make an unpleasant discovery, the sea is full of jelly fish. The yellow ones, which come from small to about the size of a plate, are said to be harmless, but there are also few white one with blue rims, which may cause skin irritation when touched.

Given the odds, I still have a swim in the very warm sea, and do not encounter jelly fish, but Jane would not go into the water.

Towards the north end the sand bank is broken up, there are some developments of villas, and a road bridge connects the ‘islands’; this channel is only navigable by dinghy.

There are loads of jelly fish, not just in the sea but also in the marina.

Jelly fish (the harmless type)

They do no hurt you if you touch, but one made us hot. It stuck itself into an air conditioning sea water inlet blocking it completely …